I can't recall where you're located; do you have snowfall to deal with? The end measuring 23 3/8 inches is the end that goes against post 7 and against Crown Beams 8 & 9. I don't know how you could modify the doors to work.Another idea would be to consider building the greenhouse in a "pit" so you step down into it, but this idea is also beyond my level of experience, I'm afraid. I've never had anyone have to modify parts, either, to get the fit right.Do you mind me asking, what is the model number, on the front of your manual? Thank you so much for doing all this documentation, it certainly made my construction go along much better and I did it all myself. Could bolt the floor plate down with a filed-down bolt head?I am in a high wind area and need max strength.Thanks much for help.Fran, I am nearly finished with the frame. This gives me a comparable insulating value as a poly air inflation system. I'm glad you were able to experiment and figure out the problem.Best of luck with your build, and thank you again for posting about this problem! Bayliss and Univent are two brands that get better reviews. I guess it’s possible that some scratches might occur during the installation process, and you’d also be looking at silver bolt heads against the green frame, unless you painted the bolt heads green, and touched them up after installation (which makes me tired to think about.) Thank you Sheri for your response. thx for the advice. Our HFGH is going on ten years old...In our county, if we had poured a concrete foundation, our greenhouse would have been a taxable improvement to our property...because it would have been considered "permanent." Having to step over the metal frame is an issue. Those also show in the photos in Part Two, The Foundation.Also, we used some blue polyethylene sill insulation in between the pressure treated lumber and the metal base (shown in Part Two, The Foundation) and that very slight cushioning may have helped compensate a bit for any slight natural waviness of the wooden surface. let me know if u see any flaws in my potential method. Luckily we managed to get in on an early season sale. )My order for the side wall panels for my GH version went very smoothly, and they arrived quickly in good shape. Yes, that's generally the process, the frame is built first and then the wall and roof panels are inserted in the final stages. I'm just trying to figure out how not to lose track of where they go. Since the greenhouse mostly just sits on top of the base and only really attaches with little clips, you could attach the bottom of the framing directly to the plywood. Nobody knows what makes your heart happy better than you do. To access these threads and photos, copy and paste this URL into your browser window, for the GardenWeb greenhouse forum: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/strucs/ and do a search for “snow load brace” and a second search for “midwest snow storm”.Because your situation is a little challenging (deck, heavy snow, adding doors) you might consider posting some of your questions to the GardenWeb greenhouse forum as well, to see if others can be more helpful.Sheri, Hello Art,Congratulations! ;-). Explore. )I have heard of a few folks who didn't use the steel base, because they thought the steel might eventually rust. Good luck with your build! I’m worried that your doors won’t operate correctly, and your panels may not fit into the openings, if the frame has somehow been assembled so things are a bit out of square. Can I install the panels from the inside? I ordered a clear protective coating from an internet company named Top Secret, and applied it with a low-nap roller to the outside of my new roof panels. User manuals, Harbor Freight Tools Greenhouse Kit Operating guides and Service manuals. If the previous owner has screwed the panels into the aluminum frame (which I highly recommend) I’d number each panel with a Sharpie pen, so you put them back in the same position. If we built another Harbor Freight, we would most certainly use the steel base that comes with the kit. since I built this on my own I had no one to help hold things but attaching the cross supports, loosely, everything had enough support to build upon. Building our Harbor Freight 10' x 12' Greenhouse, http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/strucs/msg0410080322640.html?39, Harbor Freight Aluminum Greenhouse, need advice for Michigan, Part One: Basic Info, Harbor Freight 10' by 12', Part Four: Assembling the Roof, Windows, and Doors, Part Five: Modifying the Frame for Strength. If you do order some of the clips on Amazon, double check the listing, as some ship from the UK (and I'm assuming you're in the US.) But, these small curves really do go behind the edge of the thinner poly panels, and that is what Harbor Freight is trying to show you in the (unclear) illustration C on page 16 of the Harbor Freight manual.One trick I've learned is to put the clip in place this way...hold the clip so the center curve will come in contact with the panel. Thanks again for your effort. Brainstorming (uselessly)...there are earth-sheltered greenhouses, or pit greenhouses, with part of the wall sunk into the ground. :-)Let me know if you need any other help,Sheri. Lance, Mutte's post from yesterday (just above) mentioned this new problem also. Live and learn. The greenhouse incorporates a revolutionary design for quick and easy assembly, even by a single person. A thread to document the Harbor Freight Greenhouses: How to build them. I suppose it's possible they are no longer offering the panels for your Model 69893 version? My first set of Harbor Freight roof panels lasted four years, and this set is two years out, so time will tell. Your drawing only shows three long bolts. I just caution that you will really need to get the kits and work on it to see if it would work to your needs and be prepared that it may not. She verified the panel clips are still available, 130 in a bag for $15.99, plus $6.99 shipping.Then I used the same process to have her look for the roof panel. Anyone listening?) As I describe above, it can be tricky to find bolts with the same sized/shaped head as those that come with the kit, which is why some folks have sought out help at Fastenal. Or are inserting the panels necessary? Mine still work, but they can be fussy, after 8 years. Then you will have a copy of both manuals in front of you, and you will be able to see the differences in the parts list, to try to figure out what's going on here.This page on the Harbor Freight website shows the greenhouse kits available. Harbor Freight makes some, but to be honest they have poor reviews in the forums. The foundation, frame, plumbing, electrical and benches are all secure, and I'll decide how many and which panels to replace as time goes by. I have carefully patched each tiny hole with a small square of clear duct tape, to preserve the air tightness of each channel.I really meant to replace the wall panels this year, but procrastination and a few health problems distracted me from that goal. Other issue is squaring the base, the included instuctions say corner to corner should be 15' 5", but the hypotenuse of a 10'x15' triangle is around 15' 7". My greenhouse item #69893. Once it was level and square, we anchored it with the rebar pieces as shown in the photos, and then checked for level and square again. We let our kit "age" in the box for a while, too. Usually they seem to ship these pretty quickly, but this way you won't have to worry. The side flanges are only about 1/4" long.There are four holes. However you would need to create the base out of several sheets of plywood that would need to be connected. I checked and found a few extra bolts from our kit (eight years old.) There are some changes to parts, so it has been confusing, but at least that can be remedied by downloading the other manual from the HF site.Now it sounds like they are mixing up the parts, between the two versions of the kit...? There are now two versions of the Harbor Freight 10x12 greenhouse being sold; the older, original version, like mine, is Item 93358. I was wondering if you had replaced your wall panels. The instruction illustration is usless. It could be this product is helping delay problems with the new HF panels. I just called and ordered the clips for our upcoming HFGH project. Your thoughts? Scroll down to the section on "Aluminet Shade Cloth Screen Panels". Your illustrations and advice are excellent. Come spring I will most likely replace them with more Harbor Freight panels, since that is by far the cheapest option, and I managed to get six years out of the walls (six and a half, by spring 2014. 93920 greenhouse … This has been a great help. I've tried all combinations of wording in the Harbor Freight 'search' and nothing comes up. When I put them back, after caulking, I managed to put some windows back in different locations...and as a result, they never fit or operated quite as well after that. Standard Corrugated Plastic Greenhouse Panels. We took a long time to make sure the 4x6 foundation was level and square before adding the metal base; checking, readjusting the wood, and adding or removing soil as needed to make sure it was flat and level. The two "feet" are sticking up, in the air. The end measuring 23 3/8 inches is the end that goes against post 7 and against Crown Beams 8 & 9. Pam, Hi Pam,Another kind Harbor Freight greenhouse owner has just alerted me that they've made changes to some of the door parts, and my (older) manual actually doesn't even list the part 81 that you mention. I cut the metal bast in half and secured it to block stem walls, an into slab. I know anyone should be able to snap it in place but I want to get it exactly right the first time. You can also attach the left door rail, part 26, to part 24 at the same time. If you've already been encouraged to return your kit, it sounds like you're on your way to a resolution. It was probably about three months total from the time we started to having the exhaust fan, thermostats, shadecloth, and sink in place, but we weren’t trying to hurry at all. Nothing prettier than a greenhouse full of orchids (I will admit, even prettier than a greenhouse full of cacti. I built my first greenhouse, about 8 x 10, for maybe $200; and the second one, 10' x 16', for under 500, including recycled pavers on the floor, a set-tub, and benches. If someone, anyone can post the length and width along with the four hole placements, I would dearly appreciate it! 10 ft. x 12 ft. Greenhouse with 4 Vents $ 849 99. The bolt has no purpose without a hole to bolt it through.And finally, the dreaded rear wall braces 31 simply could not be installed without pulling the side walls in 1/2 inch. Steel and aluminum do not mix. At the risk of causing marital discord, I do believe that aluminum can be painted; if you Google “can aluminum be painted” or similar phrases, you’ll find many folks asking the same thing. That's terrible.I appreciate the heads up, and if folks contact me with the same problems you mention, I'll be able to send them the solutions you posted here. Corrosion on the windows reply, I 've had the GH, we switched them around and arrived! Welcome to my blog, helped tremendously Peter, and I agree that pictures are worth a words... Gave the operator the SKU number for the parts pertaining to it, look... Dis-Assembly process are a great idea snows tomorrow panel glazing clips a free standing greenhouse my site thanks... 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